As I was packing to leave to Jamaica tomorrow, I remembered that two years ago, after my last visit to this beautiful island to host a press trip focused on gastronomy, I wrote this piece. I thought it was about time I share it...
After a rather smooth flight from Atlanta into Montego Bay and a quick check at Immigration and Customs we made it to IBEROSTAR Grand Rose Hall, where we were greeted as we made it into the motor lobby by a smiling bell boy, who provided a very much needed wet towel to make the heat more bearable. He escorted us to the Front Desk and, while they were checking us in, my favorite bartender Clive showed up with a welcome drink. He seemed genuinely glad to see me again when I recognized him. It has been nearly 2 years since my last visit, but I want to believe he did remember me!
I enjoyed a “cortadito” at the lobby bar while waiting for our rooms to be ready… Blue Mountain coffee is definitely one of the best I’ve ever tried, thank God for it, I had been craving for one! I went to my room as soon as I was told it was ready and I was very pleased when I got the visit from my butler Raynard who stopped by to introduce himself and give me an explanation about the services offered and basically make himself available for “anything needed during my stay”. By now, I was already feeling very spoiled and I had been at the hotel for less than an hour. Suddenly I felt hungry, so I went down to the beach restaurant where they had a completebuffet lunch that featured a very varied salad bar, hamburgers, pizzas and Jamaican station that included jerk chicken, festivals, ackee and other yummy items, including fresh local fruits. I had lunch right by the beach enjoying an amazing view of the Caribbean Sea and the very pleasant breeze.
I had work to do so I was checking e-mails for a couple of hours before hitting the gym. I decided to do only some cardio even though I was very tempted to stay longer as the equipment was really state-of-the-art. I realized I had a short window so I thought I’d do a more complete workout the next day.
I met my companions at the lobby bar for drinks around 7:00 p.m. Our bartender Hardley delighted us not only with great cocktails but he also sung some Jamaican tunes to his guitar…hey, is everybody some sort of artist at this island? We headed to the Italian Restaurant for dinner as they were expecting us at the restaurant. They offered us a delicious mango chutney with a parmesan cheese foam as a starter. As an appetizer I ordered beef carpaccio which was not only beautifully presented but very tasty. As main course I enjoyed a rack of lamb with polenta…I said I wanted it medium cooked and they sure got it just right. We also ordered a shrimp risotto and tomato and pesto gnocchi for everyone to try and they were certainly a hit at the table. For dessert I had pears marinated in grappa with chocolate fondant and tangerine sherbet….it was delicious!
We then walked to the theater and the show hadn’t started yet, so we approached the bar where the bartender offered us a “yummy and cold” drink (Bailey’s and Kahlua on the rocks), which we really enjoyed. That night’s show was about Jamaica history and folklore, which was both very educational and fun. We then headed to the night club where we danced to some reggae and pop music.
On our second day in Jamaica we had the opportunity to get a taste of local cuisine as we stopped by Scotchie’s, a popular spot for both locals and visitors, which has been in business for a good 10 years and which is named after a type of spicy chile used in one of the sauces they feature. After placing our order we asked if we could take a peek of the kitchen, they were very pleased with our request and took us “behind the scenes”: they had these big grills covered with zinc sheets where jerk pork and jerk chicken were being slowly cooked, the smell of smoked meat was very inviting, we couldn’t wait to taste it all. We patiently waited for our food to get to the table. In the meantime, we enjoyed the lively scenery, a mix of visitors just like us, including some typical Japanese tourists with huge photo cameras, and local people, who wore the most colorful outfits. Once the food arrived, we were not at all disappointed: they definitely serve the tastiest jerk pork and jerk chicken I’ve ever had! The festivals and sweet potatoes were also very good. Steamed fish made it to the table later and it was a simple, yet wonderful dish, snapper with vegetables wrapped in aluminum foil.
Back at the hotel, we were told the best was yet to come as Executive Chef Mario González would be offering us a special tasting menu at the Gourmet Restaurant that evening. Our expectations were definitely surpassed by a very creative 6-course dinner that featured: lobster foam, Caribbean tuna tartare with passion fruit mayonnaise, almond and herb cream with earth bread sorbet, Spanish omelette sandwich with pistachio, snapper with honey sesame glace and leek confit and for dessert chocolate mousse egg with rice crispie and yogurt soup. This meal was not only incredibly delicious but, in addition, each dish was beautifully presented. It felt like we were eating art pieces!
On our last evening we had dinner at the Steakhouse, a very cozy restaurant with red brick walls and Jamaican paintings. As a starter I had scallops au gratée, they were gigantic and covered in a very delicate cheese cream. The big star of this dinner, however, was the rib eye I ordered which had been cooked during the right length of time. And to conclude I had a delicious fried ice cream with chocolate sauce.
The next day we had to go home but as I was waiting for my transfer to the airport I enjoyed for the last time a “cortado” prepared by Clive. I wanted to take the taste of Blue Mountain coffee with me as a memory of the awesome time I, once again, had in this unforgettable island. Oh Jamaica, I wish I could have stayed longer this time.
